Korea - a world into its own

The four days went swiftly but has left a lasting impression of beauty and fear, while still flying towards Beijing I am still apprehensive of my impending freedom (?! I am still heading to China I have to remind myself). Korean tour guides have escorted us since arriving by train in Pyongyang, our only rest late night at the hotel on an island separate from the people of Korea - but even then I was unable to prevent myself concocting conspiracy theories of what mat happen next, and how the country runs.

Korea is a land I still know little of, unless we can spend more significant amounts of time in the country we will only ever be “aliens” descending on a land that has pretty much remained stuck in the time-warp. This however is not a country where oppression is very visibly evident, regardless of what the western media portrays. My people watching didn’t seem to reflect what I had seen on TV or in the news. They were sociable and engaged, if somewhat protective of their country and state. People do smile, they believe in their leaders and they have opportunities that many poor people in the west don’t have, for example children having access to free education and extra-curricular activities. Though I do feel that a lot of this is a distraction for the people from political thought – though there were many times in which I felt incredibly relaxed in the Korean’s company. I still find it hard to fathom the true culture and belief system in DPRK.

Their belief system is somewhat inaccessible as their leaders pretty much proclaim themselves as a god/king-like figure, and lying in state highlights how its been indoctrinated into the culture. A line of kings has ruled the country since 1953, promoting a story of rising from rags to riches, that has kept the belief of their plight alive. Time has shown the weakness of the country and its apparent keenness to demonstrate its strength and position in the world by developing nuclear arms. Our guide proudly confirmed that as recently as 2011 nuclear weapons were successfully tested. It is also widely believed the country has a real satellite; the truth here is still unknown. Yet it's international network has declined significantly, once flying as far as Morocco and Russia the national air carrier - Air Koryo - now only hops to China, Indonesia and Malaysia . Likely the result off the back of the Cold War since less communist countries exist.

Admittedly my own values ethics and beliefs were somewhat tested while in Korea. The simplicity of life provides its own value, even just for a few days. Large empty streets, long expansive highways, no advertising or commercial marketing - only state propaganda, no computers yet mobile phone usage is on the rise, no Internet, a simplified metro system, no pollution and a community that appeared to exist for one another. This seemed somewhat special, an escape from our hectic western world yet what accompanies this way of life is sad and depressing, even if on the surface smiles are apparent. 

A social class system naturally created through communism and different roles in society enforces individuals and families to live long suffering lifes in their economic position sanctioned by rations and access to payment. Is it though really that different to the world of the west? How far does our propaganda position us in society? How our supposed democracy frees us and gives us choices? How our shackles are financial and education?

Beijing to North Korea (DPRK) - to another world

Waking to a busy, lively train while cramped in the top bunk of a sleeper is not most people’s idea of enjoyment and excitement but for me it is one of those days in the year that put a smile on my sleep. I had managed to survive the night without rolling off the bunk, kept myself warm from the onslaughts of air con blasts from the roof of my berth (thanks to my Vietnamese silk sleeping bag), and had manoeuvred my way up and down the three bunks twice during the course of the night without disturbing anyone, in pitch darkness on a moving wagon! 

As you can tell I was mighty pleased with myself! The top bunk is not many people's choice but it certainly means people won’t disturb you. I then sit up - bang! I hit my forehead square on the train roof! Good morning! Half crunch and that's the space in my bunk compromised. 

Then I need to manoeuvre out of the bunk, changing clothes and packing while the body is still waking up and muscles aren't quite stretched. It makes me wonder how I did this during the course of the night. Especially during my mid-sleep pee break!

Settled on the bottom bunk with my friend Emily we engage with the scene whipping past our window. Large limescale hills fill the background immersed in greenery, fields packed full of crops for as far as the eye could see. Small villages, packs of houses - neither the cottage kind, nor the high rise we had experienced through much of the country from Beijing so far, instead these were well-constructed brick/concrete abodes. The city had met the countryside. 

China is fast becoming a first world leader leaving behind its third world roots that I had come to understand as a child 20 years ago. It had leapt ahead. The train system seemed well designed, if somewhat delayed for a 14-hour journey, but the tracks are immaculate. Long roads of concrete embedded with thick iron railway tracks. Robust tunnels drilled into the descriptive countryside and above ground routes illustrating the countries commitment to sustainable travel. This is not a railway built for the sake of it; this rail network connects towns, cities, people, communities throughout the country with high-speed bullet trains and quality night sleepers that spreads travellers between air and land. 

For always the beauty of train travel is the opportunity to digest the scenic offerings of the country, take in the culture of locals travelling to visit friends and family and taking a step back from the chaotic nature of air travel and the stress of security. Though everywhere in Beijing they do rank their security of utmost importance, as we enter Tinnanamen Square and so too the train station our bags are scanned - though to be honest as I took a second look I wonder if its actually more routine than security caution! At which point it was just a hassle than stress. 

Beijing train station is huge and the two-storey departure lounge reflected the sheer size of the country and population. As we waited in our departure hall with hundreds of others taking the same train it certainly does dawn on me how well organised this country is, especially in comparison to near neighbour - India - whose chaotic platforms and deteriorating departure halls are a stark contrast. Yet both developing world leaders, as part of the BRIC countries, what's interesting to see is how each Chinese person is reasonably supported by the state, something India has failed to do - perhaps the nugget of communist capitalism, or a future for China to be weary of?!

See India travel post.

Day Six: Argentina – or Not? Mission!!!

The table was draped in cloth that had seen better days – and cutlery that had had more mouths wrapped around them than a rent boys appendage…

Jesuit Missionary Ruins were next. Hopped on a coach – 5 hours – dropped at the side of a bare motorway. Where were we? The bus station seemed abandoned except for a few Argentine ladies babysitting traveller’s bags who were visiting the Missionary Ruins. http://www.welcomeargentina.com/posadas/san-ignacio-ruins.html

On walking the red dirt track to the village under unforgiving sunshine baring an unbelievable heat we sought refuge at the first restaurant (also to restore our stomachs). The empty 1970s restaurant was painted pink and the fridge in the corner running from a generator flickered on and off. A 60-something year old man enthusiastically greeted us. [We choose a table near the entrance for a swift exit should someone appear with a bloodstained apron and meat clever.] The table was draped in cloth that had seen better days – and cutlery that had had more mouths wrapped around them than a rent boys appendage.

Day Four: Argentina – Panoramic Brazil, Iguazu Falls

The confrontation of a mass of water falling 70 – 80 feet across the river; glittering in the sun – emblazoned with vibrant rainbows; and the crashing water bellowing a constant rhythm of peace and harmony among the chirping of happy birds and the irregular chanting of the river’s rapids…

Day Three: Argentina – A journey to Heaven – Iguaçu, Iguaçu

The sheer size of this forest was impeccable – as far as the eye could see was (what appeared to be) undisturbed plant growth – no borders/ hedges, no squares or rectangles, no buildings or roads. I was in love – the world truly existed. Never in my life had I seen anything so beautifully natural.

Cuba - Series introduction

During the 1950’s Cuba was the next big thing; splendid resorts lined the coast just east of Havana; brightly painted chalets filled the country hamlets and Chevrolets ruled the roads. Today, the resort Playas del Este is nothing more than modern ruins with the occasional working property; the beaches are reminiscent of a wealthy bygone era. The chalets, much like the inner city 19^th Century Spanish mansions, are dilapidated while the Chevrolets are fighting with Ladas on the road.

White beaches and glorious crystal blue seas frame an island steeped in history clinging to itself for success. Its heroes in Fidel Castro and Che Guevara are emblazoned across every street, in every town in every region; the people, committed to a life of communism with an income stream from the capitalist tourists of the North.

The country opened its borders to travel in the early 1990’s as their Sugar Cane exports ran dry. The need for better technology encouraged them to trade directly with both Russia and China; the main cities certainly do not go without all the mod-cons of the developed modern age – do we include the iPhone? Well, yes they have them too. 

Top Tips

1.    Take Euros or Pounds, you will face high commission rates when withdrawing cash

2.    Accommodation; stay with locals in Casa Particulares

3.    Internet: Public internet access is restricted and means queuing for a few hours, and Cubans love to queue. Speed and reliability of the connection is incredibly painful – think early dial-up!

4.    Cubans are prohibited from talking to tourists unless it is the tourist who engaged the Cuban or if a service is being provided. Police stroll cities and beaches to ensure the safety of tourists.

5.    Stay away from food street vendors as this is likely to make your stomach churn – for several days!

 

Check out the rest of my experiences and advice through the other articles on this Honest Omissions