Gay Guy Goes Gay China - discovering Gay Beijing

Gay China

Gay China is much more apparent than I expected, but with an internal population of over 1 billion people it really is obvious to understand why there is a hive of homosexual activity.

I had the chance to visit three gay venues while in Beijing, I also discovered how people keep in contact. It is worth downloading and accessing a couple of social applications for China; grindr, jack’d, and WeChat. The most popular gay chat device is definitely Jack’d. These weren’t limited to access through a VPN either.

What’s important to note, is that most of the Chinese live outside the central centre to Beijing, but there are a couple of gay venues worth visiting:

Destination

7 Gongti Xi Lu

Subway - Dong SiShiTaio

Next to walkers Stadium, past Asia Hotel

Great on Friday and Saturday. It has 1 dance floor - where everyone faces the DJ booth and Pole Dance Station, very weird, and has a further 7 bars and several chill out rooms that are well air conditioned.

Check out Bear Bar - with Teddy Bears – intended for their own Chinese variety of gay men bears.

The entry is 80 RMB entry including one drink. Drinks 30 RMB for cocktail / 35 RMB for a beer (at time of print)

There were very few westerners, about 10, when I was there but the place gets packed. Destination used to be the number one club but with the opening of Funky it's not as popular but still the best by all accounts.

Mix with the locals and dance, watch the locals drink and play dice games. It is a little hard to start conversations with them but once engaged they really are quite sociable.

Destination is an excellent mixed and diverse crowd that shows the new China and not that we see in the West in gay bars.

Open until 5am

Take a taxi back to the hotel and ensure it goes by a meter. Do not take a private taxi as it will work out more expensive.

Just two roads away from the main Bar street, next to the Workers Stadium

Kai Club

3^rd Floor,Tongli Studio, Sanlitun (on the east side of the alley connecting Sanlitun Village and Opposite House), it’s just by Mohito Man (ask a backpacker and they will know this)  Take the stairway up to the entrance on the 3^rd floor. This is really a very simple bar with dance floor and DJ every night of the week. It tends to attract a slightly younger audience.

Watch the boys order huge quantities of drinks and spend hours knocking them plus shots back.

- Popular on week nights though packed at weekends and overspills to straight bars

- Vodka red bull 10rmb though don't expect high quality drinks

- Gets reasonably busy post 11.30pm

- Good pop and dance music

- Smokey bar

- Largely a young crowd of 20 - 30 year olds

Funky

Apparently opposite Destination.  Although could not find it, above Coco

6 floor, 8 Gongti Xi Lu

This I was told is one of the best to visit on a Saturday.

Mesh

The Opposite House, 1 Sanlitun Bei Rd, Sanlitun.

This is an upmarket bar in a upmarket hotel that is popular with a gay crowd on a Thursday. It is largely middle-class and tourists/ expats. The drinks are 3 – 4 times more expensive than those on a regular street bar.

Korea - a world into its own

The four days went swiftly but has left a lasting impression of beauty and fear, while still flying towards Beijing I am still apprehensive of my impending freedom (?! I am still heading to China I have to remind myself). Korean tour guides have escorted us since arriving by train in Pyongyang, our only rest late night at the hotel on an island separate from the people of Korea - but even then I was unable to prevent myself concocting conspiracy theories of what mat happen next, and how the country runs.

Korea is a land I still know little of, unless we can spend more significant amounts of time in the country we will only ever be “aliens” descending on a land that has pretty much remained stuck in the time-warp. This however is not a country where oppression is very visibly evident, regardless of what the western media portrays. My people watching didn’t seem to reflect what I had seen on TV or in the news. They were sociable and engaged, if somewhat protective of their country and state. People do smile, they believe in their leaders and they have opportunities that many poor people in the west don’t have, for example children having access to free education and extra-curricular activities. Though I do feel that a lot of this is a distraction for the people from political thought – though there were many times in which I felt incredibly relaxed in the Korean’s company. I still find it hard to fathom the true culture and belief system in DPRK.

Their belief system is somewhat inaccessible as their leaders pretty much proclaim themselves as a god/king-like figure, and lying in state highlights how its been indoctrinated into the culture. A line of kings has ruled the country since 1953, promoting a story of rising from rags to riches, that has kept the belief of their plight alive. Time has shown the weakness of the country and its apparent keenness to demonstrate its strength and position in the world by developing nuclear arms. Our guide proudly confirmed that as recently as 2011 nuclear weapons were successfully tested. It is also widely believed the country has a real satellite; the truth here is still unknown. Yet it's international network has declined significantly, once flying as far as Morocco and Russia the national air carrier - Air Koryo - now only hops to China, Indonesia and Malaysia . Likely the result off the back of the Cold War since less communist countries exist.

Admittedly my own values ethics and beliefs were somewhat tested while in Korea. The simplicity of life provides its own value, even just for a few days. Large empty streets, long expansive highways, no advertising or commercial marketing - only state propaganda, no computers yet mobile phone usage is on the rise, no Internet, a simplified metro system, no pollution and a community that appeared to exist for one another. This seemed somewhat special, an escape from our hectic western world yet what accompanies this way of life is sad and depressing, even if on the surface smiles are apparent. 

A social class system naturally created through communism and different roles in society enforces individuals and families to live long suffering lifes in their economic position sanctioned by rations and access to payment. Is it though really that different to the world of the west? How far does our propaganda position us in society? How our supposed democracy frees us and gives us choices? How our shackles are financial and education?

Choosing your Sleep Train bunk: why the top?

Sleeper Train – why the Top bunk? Wny Not

The Top bunk provides privacy, peace and quiet and the chance to take the overhead storage space in the berth. However…there are some let downs:

1 – Air Con – you suffer from the blasts of cold air during the night. It is therefore essential you pack a jumper…even in the hottests of countries. Nothing worse than a summer cold during a holiday. You can also wake up extremely dehydrated!

2 – The Berth Room light. The light goes off and you have navigate your way to the bunk. The morning arises and suddenly the light comes on, right in front of your face. If you wanted a wake-up alarm then the top bunk is the way to go. And why does it always tend to have the most intense bulb?!!

3 – No window – don’t expect to enjoy the views from the bed like the beds below you. Nope…you have to suffer the view of well…nothing! So make sure there is a window seat somewhere you can enjoy

4 – Balance – if you’re balance is rubbish, and your flexibility is minimal then climbing to the top bunk could be something that should well be videoed and YouTubed. That, or it gives you a chance to show off your military climbing techniques!!! Just put water in-take to a minimum throughout the journey…pee breaks are the worst!!!

Enjoy your journey!

Beijing to North Korea (DPRK) - to another world

Waking to a busy, lively train while cramped in the top bunk of a sleeper is not most people’s idea of enjoyment and excitement but for me it is one of those days in the year that put a smile on my sleep. I had managed to survive the night without rolling off the bunk, kept myself warm from the onslaughts of air con blasts from the roof of my berth (thanks to my Vietnamese silk sleeping bag), and had manoeuvred my way up and down the three bunks twice during the course of the night without disturbing anyone, in pitch darkness on a moving wagon! 

As you can tell I was mighty pleased with myself! The top bunk is not many people's choice but it certainly means people won’t disturb you. I then sit up - bang! I hit my forehead square on the train roof! Good morning! Half crunch and that's the space in my bunk compromised. 

Then I need to manoeuvre out of the bunk, changing clothes and packing while the body is still waking up and muscles aren't quite stretched. It makes me wonder how I did this during the course of the night. Especially during my mid-sleep pee break!

Settled on the bottom bunk with my friend Emily we engage with the scene whipping past our window. Large limescale hills fill the background immersed in greenery, fields packed full of crops for as far as the eye could see. Small villages, packs of houses - neither the cottage kind, nor the high rise we had experienced through much of the country from Beijing so far, instead these were well-constructed brick/concrete abodes. The city had met the countryside. 

China is fast becoming a first world leader leaving behind its third world roots that I had come to understand as a child 20 years ago. It had leapt ahead. The train system seemed well designed, if somewhat delayed for a 14-hour journey, but the tracks are immaculate. Long roads of concrete embedded with thick iron railway tracks. Robust tunnels drilled into the descriptive countryside and above ground routes illustrating the countries commitment to sustainable travel. This is not a railway built for the sake of it; this rail network connects towns, cities, people, communities throughout the country with high-speed bullet trains and quality night sleepers that spreads travellers between air and land. 

For always the beauty of train travel is the opportunity to digest the scenic offerings of the country, take in the culture of locals travelling to visit friends and family and taking a step back from the chaotic nature of air travel and the stress of security. Though everywhere in Beijing they do rank their security of utmost importance, as we enter Tinnanamen Square and so too the train station our bags are scanned - though to be honest as I took a second look I wonder if its actually more routine than security caution! At which point it was just a hassle than stress. 

Beijing train station is huge and the two-storey departure lounge reflected the sheer size of the country and population. As we waited in our departure hall with hundreds of others taking the same train it certainly does dawn on me how well organised this country is, especially in comparison to near neighbour - India - whose chaotic platforms and deteriorating departure halls are a stark contrast. Yet both developing world leaders, as part of the BRIC countries, what's interesting to see is how each Chinese person is reasonably supported by the state, something India has failed to do - perhaps the nugget of communist capitalism, or a future for China to be weary of?!

See India travel post.

Guide to Beijing, China: Getting around, what has the city have to offer?

China – can it sustain growth? Getting around Beijing

I may have only spent time in Beijing, and took a train across the country, but the sheer size of its towns and cities, the growth of the skyline, and its modern look just exemplifies the place that China holds in the world.

Beijing has been flattened and rebuilt with many big block faceless buildings. History and culture seems to have been surrendered, even the Hutong area has been and is being rebuilt.

Speaking to a local, he tells me of the property bubble and how it is growing out of control. Rates and costs are rising, and this is unsustainable.

Sustainability is the theme here. So many people, so much growth and so many fighting to make sure they get the slice of the cake. I watch people as I travel and here in Beijing it’s no different, except there are so many more people here to watch.

I am first amazed by how everyone seems out for their own. People queue jump and push in line, they force their way onto the metro before people have disembarked. They seem to want to be there first before someone else gets there. And its easy to understand why, 1 billion people, if they are to have a chance they have to push up front. Natural selection and the fittest will survive seems to be very evident.

It’s also surprising how large the Beijing people seem to be, obesity is certainly a problem and growing by the day. Hundreds of fast-food outlets with McDonalds and KFC, to be honest this is a relief away from some of the very heavy Chinese food.

TAXIS

The roads are packed and it is likely you will not get anywhere fast, so use the metro if you can, only in the early hours of the morning are the roads quieter. Most of the taxi drivers I had seemed rude. In fact one evening I asked 3 taxi drivers to take me somewhere and they all Declined. I tried to show them somewhere on my map and they declined, this could be because they could not read. This either indicates their eyesight ability or their literacy levels.

In most cases it's quicker to take the metro and walk between locations, though expect a 10-15 minute walk to locations, plus only costs 2RMB

SHOPPING

Silk Market 

The home of replica branded clothes (shorts, tshirts, dresses, trousers etc) including Superdry, Armani, Abercrombie & Fitch etc, silk products, handcrafts, and tailored clothing. There’s a lot to feast your eyes on, and many ready to feast on your wallet:

- Expect to have to haggle hard, the buying process is more ridiculous than India and can often be much more offensive.

- Remain unbelievably calm

- When haggling don't speak just use their calculator

- They will try to charge you a ridiculous price for example a replica Superdry Tshirt is quoted as 700rmb. You should only pay what you feel the value is. Place a counter offer of 30Rmb, this will go back and forth until a final offer is agreed. It is likely you could get it for 50rmb but It's about being tough with negotiation.

- The experience left me bitter, angry and upset. They seem to be very much playing games with tourists, so it's important not to take it seriously (like I did) and play the game back. There's plenty of shops selling the same items so you can always move to another seller, at which point they are likely to say they will accept the offer. Thank god I was not alone on this trip…

EATING

The Den by Bar Street

4 Gongti Dong Lu, Gongti, Chaoyang District

·      Western food

·      Burger bacon and egg with fries and salad. Very good. 45rmb

·      Popular with westerners especially expats

CULTURE

798 - arts district 

Visit the arts district, it somewhat reminds me of East London and Shoreditch, or Brooklyn/ Williamsberg. It is very cool, and very Chinese new art. It feels like an escape from the busy surrounding city and is a certain must visit if you have 4 days in Beijing. It only takes 45 minutes to get there. Follow these directions.

909 bus (2rmb) from exit C at Dongzhmen subway (Line 2)

6km journey out of the city North East towards airport 

798 has many bars, coffee shops and restaurants, art houses, craft stores, galleries, so it is easy to while away a lot of time here.

HISTORY

Visit Tiananmen Square, The Forbidden City, Drum Tower, Bell Tower, and Hutong area while here, all this will take you just one day. You will find it incredibly busy, but it is pretty much all within walking distance. If the clouds look heavy and grey take an umbrella! Don’t be caught in the heavy rainstorms.

While we were in Hutong we grabbed a lunch and a massage, the area was once the old part of Beijing, rebuilt it still has many of the trademarks of former times, with smaller streets, one-storey buildings, many restaurants and shops and pretty much the back-packer tourist area. I felt little vibe here due to the fact it had been heavily rebuilt, but this is what I found from much of Beijing.

EXCURSIONS

The Great Wall, Ming Tombs

We took a day trip out to The Great Wall on an excursion that included shopping outlets and the Ming Tombs. To be honest, I wished I had opted only for The Great Wall and taken the hike of the Jinshanling part of the wall, instead we took the Mutuanyu, with a cable car up to the top and a toboggan down to the bottom (which is quite fun). The wall length is limited for walking, but provides a wonderful view of the Wall and the surrounding landscape.

The excursion cost us 180RMB

The Beach, BeDaihe

We were spending 5 days in Beijing, so I needed to escape. We were advised to visit the beach. On reading more details we found it is a popular tourist destination for Russians, and so to it is – with all signs being dual language Chinese and Russian where English is forgotten. We took a train in the morning (7.35am) arriving at 9.30am, we were on the beach by 11am and enjoying a fresh Crab and Fish lunch at 2.30pm. A train back at 4.40pm and we were in Beijing again by 7pm, ticket 180RMB return.

When booking a train ticket, look out for the Train Ticket office in the far right side of Beijing station as you look at it. There is an English Desk and you will need to look hard. Alternatively queue, speak English and they will find someone for you. This process could take about an hour, so give yourself plenty of time.

To/From Airport

Take the train, it’s only 25RM and only takes 30 minutes to get to the Metro, then it is very easy to figure out from there.

Safety

I felt safe in Beijing, no fear of pickpockets nor did I feel threatened, but it’s worth being aware of your surroundings

Currency

Working 10RMB to the £ helped me budget a bit, but it does seem like Beijing is an expensive city and not the cheap I was expecting. Just be aware of costs.

Technology

Download a VPN Direct Application, especially to access Facebook

WeChat – excellent for connecting with any local

Jack’d – connect with gay locals.

See my China Gay Travel post

Vietnam – visiting the Village of Dong Ho, the great cycle of West Lake

The deeper you delve into Hanoi the more that comes to life. It’s not the shabby city I thought it was on arrival, the Old Town, the Old French Quarter, the West Lake and beyond this city is expanding by the day.
 

Land is the price in Vietnam, explaining why buildings a slender and going up by the month. Families are using the space to the max, adding new floors to expand their home. In some areas these brightly coloured rendered home fronts show a very cosmopolitan feel, while in other areas it looks disheveled. But it very much reminds me of Europe.

Building appears to be the life of Vietnamese. It is obvious they WANT people to build, for the people to prosper. As we escape the city towers of bricks line the roads, huge clay craters tell the tale of construction. Hanoi is stretching for kilometers. House after house, fresh, new and simply designed. The year of construction firmly, proudly labeled affronts the roof. This is real brick, not cheap wood design.

Day two we take a cycle out to the Village of Dong Ho, about an hour from the city centre. Here we are dumped in rural Vietnam, surrounded by acres of paddy fields and banana plantations. We come across the home and business of artist Nguyen Che who produces original hand drawn designs from Papyrus paper, which is still handmade today. Colours made from the stone, leaves and seeds of the soil.

The landscape has been built in response to the local habitat, the villages have been protected from the over-flooding Duong River – as we cycle the great dykes that feels like a fortress of the city. Yet the river runs drier each year in response to the dam in China.

Day three we cycle the West Lake, the leisurely 23km ride takes us around the city visiting paragodas and temples along the way. The lake is the meeting place, where lovers canoodle, and friends while away their time – motorbikes and cycles line the road, dogs roam the streets. The backdrop a very dusty grey city sat upon a muggy sky, the people in modern designer brands clutching cigarettes.

I’m in the North and hear I see change on the horizon. Hanoi is about culture, people, community and family. There is much traditional here, and there is an obvious split between town and country. Market traders cycle or bike into town every morning to sell their goods, sometimes hours of commuting a day with their bikes stacked high with trade. How long can this last? How much more can this city sustain this dual lifestyle?

I leave Hanoi with questions in my mind as we climb aboard the mini-bus for Hy Long Bay

 MORE PHOTOS of HANOI