Vietnam – Cycling the back roads & villages of Ninh Binh – the waterway

The day started with a jolt – other than waking at 5am due to dehydration – my alarm kicked into gear for the first time this trip, stirring me to an unwanted consciousness. The hard bed provided my fellow travelers and myself with a deceivingly great sleep.

A two-egg omelet and three plates of food filled my breakfast stomach before we hopped on our bikes for the countryside and local farms of Ninh Binh.

The sky remained grey with fog and light cloud – as the day matured the sun strengthened and blue skies attempted to force their way through.

We visited the ancient capital of Vietnam – it survived for some of a century in around 900-1000BC before moving on. The Vietnam War had pretty much destroyed any heritage of the country yet we visited two temples – including that of a king with a thing for playboys.

 

We navigated small road and dirt pathways between limestone hills and vivid green rice paddy fields. In fact it was the Vietnam we see in the storybooks, travel guides and TV documentaries. I suddenly felt swept up by the country.

Lunch was hosted by a local family – traditional Vietnamese in their former wooden shack built in 1963; so it survived the war!

Mid-afternoon we took a trip across the river; a woman rowed us for two hours through the slow moving river frames by dykes and ornamental limestone hills. Here peace, relaxation and a true slow-pace of life revealed itself.

Evening came, 9.30pm and I boarded my first sleeper train. The 1920’s diesel engine rolled in some minutes late. It was due to pause in Ninh Binh for little more than three minutes – the crew of nine ran for carriage 9 bumbling up the stairs before squeezing into tight dormitories. It was a dream come true.

I felt like Indiana Jones – just in the wrong decade.

We ordered our beds and supplies for the 13-hour journey to Hue and prepared for sleep. I, in my silk sleeping bag from Hanoi.

 

EXPLORE ITINERARY: Day 5: Exploring rural scenesof Ninh Binh by bicycle. Overnight Reunification Express to Hué

Cycling the back roads to Hoa Lu this morning, we visit the country’s ancient capital. Once the political and cultural centre of Dai Co Viet (Vietnam), the city ruled over the region’s first centralised feudal state. Whilst many of its ancient monuments are long gone, we will get a chance this morning to visit the temple of King Dinh Tien Hoang, the man who unified the country and founded Vietnam’s first feudal dynasty. From here we cycle along narrow concrete paths through picturesque local communities on to the 12th century Nguyen Saint Temple. After a break at the temple we head through rural countryside towards the spectacular limestone karst formations of Van Long, and finally on to the nearby village of Vuon Thi, where we enjoy a delicious traditional lunch. There may be an opportunity to try some traditional farming and fishing instruments in the yard. After lunch we cycle the short distance to the nearby dock for a tranquil sampan journey around the stunning caves and Karst scenery of the Van long Reservoir. Returning to Ninh Binh later this afternoon by bus, there will be some free time in the city and to freshen up in our hotel dayroom before we board the Reunification Express for the overnight journey to Hué.

Fort Lauderdale: Shopping

There’s no doubt about it – the American’s know how to shop. They’ve exported their shopping malls across the world along with their brands and culture of hanging around stores all day buying and eating. Well here in Fort Lauderdale it’s on an even bigger scale – you’ll find superb boutique stores in the streets of downtown Fort Lauderdale, especially East Las Olas Boulevard, and the largest shopping outlet in the whole of the USA – Sawgrass Mills.

Sawgrass Mills covers nearly 2 miles of shopping space together with over 350 stores – this beast is still growing with expectations in late 2012 a further section will be added to this 20 year old in-door high street. You can get all the top brand names like Gap, Esprit, Calvin Klein to the designer labels of Hugo Boss, Prada and Versace.

Take all this with excellent American prices plus heavy discounts of 40% (regularly advertised) or so and you’ll be making unbelievable savings on European pricing. Just make sure you give yourself plenty of time, Sawgrass Mills needs a minimum of 2.5 hours.

Sawgrass Mills: 12801 West Sunrise Boulevard, Sunrise, Florida,33323

www.facebook.com/sawgrassmills

Day Eight: Argentina – A journey from Resistencia, the buses

Having stupidly chosen a window seat and my partner sound asleep to my right I evaluated my route to the toilet in the underside cabin. It seemed simple, just climb over him into the aisle. However remembering the width of the seats this would require me to perform the near splits while leaping from my side to the target zone…

The bus system in Argentina is extraordinary. A network of buses meander across the entire country taking travellers to their intended destination using the long straight highways connecting the towns and cities. Many companies operate routes day and night, giving you the advantage of saving on a hotel and sleeping on their bed-like seats called – semi-cases. The second trip we took, Resistencia – Cordoba was a 12-hour drive that we intended to do by night. http://www.omnilineas.com/

On leaving Resistencia it wasn’t long before we were served our first meal. An entrée in the form of a thick Argentine style ham sandwich (no crust of course) followed by a plate of dried biscuits, plus a hot dish consisting of potato puree (mashed potato) and garlic chicken (a huge breast) accompanied by red wine.

We polished off the meal rather quickly in earnest to delve into a deep sleep.

Stretched out across their semi-camas these seats are the desired form for a 12-hour flight. The ability to be stretched back 120 degrees with raised leg rests and enough width that will make a lard-arse American happy, complimented by a pillow and blanket it didn’t take long before a sweet sleep set-in.

The bus continued on its night-drive through the great plains of Argentina passing the odd truck like lonely wanderers adamant not to lose a single second. It’s air conditioning kept the interior a mild temperature protecting us from the 25 degree + outside in the dead of night! However it also meant an incredibly dry mouth – fortunately thoughtful planning and resourcefulness we had packed a large bottle of water – gulping this throughout the night for rehydration. But the result of a lot of water intake is of course a full bladder.

Having stupidly chosen a window seat and my partner sound asleep to my right I evaluated my route to the toilet in the underside cabin. It seemed simple, just climb over him into the aisle. However remembering the width of the seats this would require me to perform the near splits while leaping from my side to the target zone. Another hurdle, the person in front of him was lying at full tilt, if that went hazardously wrong and I lost my balance falling one way or another no doubt would have caused them a rude awakening and a 6’1” man landing on their lap. My plan therefore would be to spring from one foot over balancing myself by thrusting my head forward to ensure the correct direction of travel. While feeling confident with this new approach the bus jaunted a couple of times on rough road. To which I could see myself falling head first into the aisle and knocking myself - out only to wet myself in the process.

-       Therefore, I decided I had to hold it in until morning!

COSTS:

Bus to Cordoba: AR$285 http://www.omnilineas.com/

Day Seven: Argentina – Resistencia the heat trap

We chose a dilapidating hostel – Bariloche – another mistake; we should have taken the slightly more expensive but breakfast inclusive 3 star hotel….

Contemplating our next leg was a bit difficult; to Posadas or Resistencia? Reflecting on the journey we realised that perhaps we did the trip backwards – it would have been better doing everything back to front as we had planned; just to avoid stopping in Posadas or Resistencia.

It was true, there was nothing in either of the cities but we had to make the choice and Resistencia it was. Arriving late on the Sunday – greeted by huge frogs and bare streets. We chose a dilapidating hostel – Bariloche – another mistake; we should have taken the slightly more expensive but breakfast inclusive 3 star hotel.

Next day we left with bags on our backs to navigate the city – actually town – no lets just call it a large village with one central square/plaza and nothing but TWO museums. Actually one you couldn’t really call a museum – a place of cultural interest, a memory of Resistencia after the war; a home to local artists – a commemoration of its rich owner. The second museum was more a representation of the guilt of its repressive actions the Argentines had on the indigenous people.

By 2pm – that was it. The town was shut to all. Bars, restaurants, museums (yes the two), were all closed as locals fled from the dead heat of the bare sky as the sun forced its heat into every crack beneath its glare. The siesta ended our relationship with Resistencia – but being way too early to catch our coach we found a hotel with a pool; paid a fee for the room and sunk into the cooler waters to wait for the hours to go by.

Resistencia – quite a heat trap!

COSTS:

Breakfast for two: AR$44

Museum: AR$5

Hotel with Pool (half day) AR$110

Bus to bus terminal: AR$2

Day Four: Argentina – Panoramic Brazil, Iguazu Falls

The confrontation of a mass of water falling 70 – 80 feet across the river; glittering in the sun – emblazoned with vibrant rainbows; and the crashing water bellowing a constant rhythm of peace and harmony among the chirping of happy birds and the irregular chanting of the river’s rapids…

Day Two: Argentina – Train to the Delta, Tigre

The romantic idea of this being part of the world untouched, the meeting of river to sea by the South American rainforests is far from reality…

Video - Buenos Aires

Stopped in Buenos Aires twice during our trip through North-East of Argentina. A big, noisey and a little rough around the edges the capital of Argentina will keep you busy as a shopper, drinker or culturalist. Find out more vimeo.com/ryanhaynes

Why I dislike (hate) airports

Airports are today the biggest hurdle to getting to any foreign and global destination, it's the one thing that fills me with dread and anxiety. From the moment I wake to make that journey to the airport my heart beats at a random beat, hands become moist and I constantly check the clock to ensure I have plenty of time.

The point at which you finish packing and zip that bag to dropping it on your hotel bed is the worst for any trip. But let's look at the scenrio we are placed in:

The Alps - A White Wonder

As though transported 3,000 miles from a Caribbean beach and lifted 2,500 metres onto the Alps, untouched snow glistened in the sun with greater ferocity than a cloud-bare sky at night. Surely the stars felt slightly threatened by this temporary frozen wonder.

The sun shone in full spirit as if challenging itself to remove the white carpet from its stage below – yet this complex structure defied its rays reflecting all energy back – defiant to win this fight til dusk when mist filled the valleys reminiscent of a Swedish steam room. By nightfall Les Deux Alpes is drowned by cloud – creating a haze that formed a ghostly awe to the mountain village.

What makes a holiday – or a vacation?

Brits will deny a vacation exists; while for an American a holiday is a vacation. However I disagree entirely – a holiday is a part of life; as an individual you’re existing day to day just without the dramas of work and expectations from an employer; while a vacation – to me – is turning your life upon its head, doing everything differently and forgetting or blocking out everything that happens day to day. Exploring who you are as a person: re-evaluating your priorities and making decisions for where your life goes next. Taking that lead in the direction of your steps.

Cuba - Transport, Currency, Activities - Jeep Safari

Viazul – the bus service - is the best way of getting around the island without the expense of car hire, however cars will allow you to pause and take in the scenic views of jugged hills coated with palm trees and thick green foliage.

Cuba - Sightseeing - Old Havana, Centro, Costa Blanca,

Havana can be covered in two days. Exploring Habana Vieja will take about three hours where you will see the Plaza de la Catedral, Plaza de Armas, Plaza Vieja and may well stumble upon the odd Tourist festival.

Cuba - Series introduction

During the 1950’s Cuba was the next big thing; splendid resorts lined the coast just east of Havana; brightly painted chalets filled the country hamlets and Chevrolets ruled the roads. Today, the resort Playas del Este is nothing more than modern ruins with the occasional working property; the beaches are reminiscent of a wealthy bygone era. The chalets, much like the inner city 19^th Century Spanish mansions, are dilapidated while the Chevrolets are fighting with Ladas on the road.

White beaches and glorious crystal blue seas frame an island steeped in history clinging to itself for success. Its heroes in Fidel Castro and Che Guevara are emblazoned across every street, in every town in every region; the people, committed to a life of communism with an income stream from the capitalist tourists of the North.

The country opened its borders to travel in the early 1990’s as their Sugar Cane exports ran dry. The need for better technology encouraged them to trade directly with both Russia and China; the main cities certainly do not go without all the mod-cons of the developed modern age – do we include the iPhone? Well, yes they have them too. 

Top Tips

1.    Take Euros or Pounds, you will face high commission rates when withdrawing cash

2.    Accommodation; stay with locals in Casa Particulares

3.    Internet: Public internet access is restricted and means queuing for a few hours, and Cubans love to queue. Speed and reliability of the connection is incredibly painful – think early dial-up!

4.    Cubans are prohibited from talking to tourists unless it is the tourist who engaged the Cuban or if a service is being provided. Police stroll cities and beaches to ensure the safety of tourists.

5.    Stay away from food street vendors as this is likely to make your stomach churn – for several days!

 

Check out the rest of my experiences and advice through the other articles on this Honest Omissions