Showing posts with label holi. Show all posts
Showing posts with label holi. Show all posts

Tuesday, 17 September 2013

Varanasi - the holy city - the city of lights



The guidebooks tell you, photography shows you but you will never know until you visit. It's its own world - separated from the rest of India driven by the flow of the Ganges, living in its historical belief system with immense strength and dignity. Though its much more complex than that.

Varanasi sits in a blaze of heat from about 9am, a walk along the Ghats is an excellent way to begin understanding the lifestyle here: bathing in the Ganges, washing clothes, as children play and cows cool down. Debris of the previous night’s light ceremony drive in the water, and flower petals decorate the edges. A haze forms on the other side as the sun increases its mighty strength.

Become exposed to the holy ritual of burning dead bodies on the shoreline, three hours of burning and the body is reduced to ashes then scattered into the river. Bodies of children, the sick, and pregnant mothers are strapped to an almighty stone and dropped in the middle of the river. 

The hospice here supports all of those ready to die and widows waiting for life to be taken from them.

From here, get lost in the maze of the Old City. The Labyrinth. There's no easy way around nor easy way out. Here is the place to buy your goods, and to haggle hard. But the journey to escape into familiar territory or that documented in guide books can only occur once you have once again reached the river - good luck with that! But let the Ghats guide you!

The Main Street market is a hive of activity with an array of stores catering to fashion, clothes, sill and jewellery. Here - also enjoy the hustle of Varanasi life - people trading, selling and buying in a busy street with cycle rickshaws and moto rickshaws among bikes, carts and scooters weave between one another. 

Varanasi s not a clean place, it maybe holy and it has some excellent photo opportunities - read more on Varanasi - Holi Festival.

Friday, 13 September 2013

Kolkata to Varanasi



The driver lugged my backpack to the entrance of Howarth train station, the entrance was bursting at the seams as travellers fought their way in and out. Stepping over bodies of people casually waiting for tickets, I made my way into the huge waiting area, groups of Indians scattered around huge mountains of luggage - announcements shrieking over the tirade of chitter-chatter of patiently waiting passengers. The time was 5.30pm, my train departed at 7.10pm, I had time to kill!
 
Taking a seat I watched couples engrossed in conversation. Mothers trying to control their children and men trying to capture the attention - and affection - of lone women travellers. My train, number 13005 arrived - it was time to board. Making my way to the platform I fought the hundredss if not thousands of other passengers trying to grab their seat. I was booked, I has a reserved space (but only at last minute having been a little unaware how much in advance you need to book trains in India – 4 weeks!!!) my second class air conditioned sleeper carriage was awaiting me on coach B1. 

India has one of the largest train networks perhaps, only second to china, originally built by the British – and by all accounts very little has been added since the Brits colonial rule. Spanning the width and breadth of the country it is one of the most efficient ways to travel - my tickets - R850 - just over £10 for a 14-hour journey. Not bad at all!

In the section where I was positioned their were six beds, I crammed my six foot frame into the Top bunk that barely fitted within the confines of the bed. I spoke to a Chinese traveler and a local Indian before falling into a deep sleep. 7am I woke. How I managed a 10 hour-kip is beyond me…especially on a train.

The train pulled into Varanasi at 9.17am - just 5minutes delayed having traveled over 500km. Well done India! (I can travel only 13 minutes, one stop in London and be over 7 minutes delayed…at least this is one habit I see the Indian’s managed to shrug off from the British – but this is my first trip afterall).

Varanasi station was bustling but much calmer than Kolkata. A tout tried to encourage me to travel by motor tuk -uk with him. You need to be careful here, they will try to take you where you don't want to go. Fortunately, I had booked the Sahi River View Guest House in advance having read praise in Lonely Planet and Tripadvisor. 

I attended the tourist information desk at the station who confirmed the hotel booking by phone for me and then arranged a tuk-tuk to take me there. R150 - sure I overpaid but at less than £2 I wasn't complaining, it turned out to be a 20minute ride through the town.

It was a hive of activity. Markets strewn across streets, cows meandering at their own free will - feeding on food & trash - dogs slept in the shade. The smells kept changing: flowers, fruit, feces, piss, herbs and spices. Rubbish sprawled the sidewalks as children made their way to school. 

So this is Varanasi? 

This is what I've read! And what's expected! Time to explore!