Day Nine: Argentina – Cordoba, A bustling second city

 It was restored but unfortunately while the restoration provided a glimpse of history much of the truth seemed missing. The central palace too had undergone major modern refurbishment hinting at a contradiction in terms of maintaining architectural heritage….

Arriving at a bustling bus terminal correctly indicates this as the second largest city, Cordoba. The university town near the middle of Argentina close to the entrance of the wine country is built across flat fields of an agricultural economy. Stepping first onto the main street circling the city the yellow taxis mark an emblem for Cordoba. An army of these yellow vehicles line every street and prepare for onslaught at each junction.

 

On initial inspection among semi-rise new builds and spontaneous coffee bars are grandiose buildings marking Argentine heritage – a mix of historic cultures paraded around the main square – Plaza San Martin. By 9am the day’s heat is evidently creeping towards the 30’s as locals reach for the shade cigarette in hand on the way to work.

Day Eight: Argentina – A journey from Resistencia, the buses

Having stupidly chosen a window seat and my partner sound asleep to my right I evaluated my route to the toilet in the underside cabin. It seemed simple, just climb over him into the aisle. However remembering the width of the seats this would require me to perform the near splits while leaping from my side to the target zone…

The bus system in Argentina is extraordinary. A network of buses meander across the entire country taking travellers to their intended destination using the long straight highways connecting the towns and cities. Many companies operate routes day and night, giving you the advantage of saving on a hotel and sleeping on their bed-like seats called – semi-cases. The second trip we took, Resistencia – Cordoba was a 12-hour drive that we intended to do by night. http://www.omnilineas.com/

On leaving Resistencia it wasn’t long before we were served our first meal. An entrée in the form of a thick Argentine style ham sandwich (no crust of course) followed by a plate of dried biscuits, plus a hot dish consisting of potato puree (mashed potato) and garlic chicken (a huge breast) accompanied by red wine.

We polished off the meal rather quickly in earnest to delve into a deep sleep.

Stretched out across their semi-camas these seats are the desired form for a 12-hour flight. The ability to be stretched back 120 degrees with raised leg rests and enough width that will make a lard-arse American happy, complimented by a pillow and blanket it didn’t take long before a sweet sleep set-in.

The bus continued on its night-drive through the great plains of Argentina passing the odd truck like lonely wanderers adamant not to lose a single second. It’s air conditioning kept the interior a mild temperature protecting us from the 25 degree + outside in the dead of night! However it also meant an incredibly dry mouth – fortunately thoughtful planning and resourcefulness we had packed a large bottle of water – gulping this throughout the night for rehydration. But the result of a lot of water intake is of course a full bladder.

Having stupidly chosen a window seat and my partner sound asleep to my right I evaluated my route to the toilet in the underside cabin. It seemed simple, just climb over him into the aisle. However remembering the width of the seats this would require me to perform the near splits while leaping from my side to the target zone. Another hurdle, the person in front of him was lying at full tilt, if that went hazardously wrong and I lost my balance falling one way or another no doubt would have caused them a rude awakening and a 6’1” man landing on their lap. My plan therefore would be to spring from one foot over balancing myself by thrusting my head forward to ensure the correct direction of travel. While feeling confident with this new approach the bus jaunted a couple of times on rough road. To which I could see myself falling head first into the aisle and knocking myself - out only to wet myself in the process.

-       Therefore, I decided I had to hold it in until morning!

COSTS:

Bus to Cordoba: AR$285 http://www.omnilineas.com/

Day Seven: Argentina – Resistencia the heat trap

We chose a dilapidating hostel – Bariloche – another mistake; we should have taken the slightly more expensive but breakfast inclusive 3 star hotel….

Contemplating our next leg was a bit difficult; to Posadas or Resistencia? Reflecting on the journey we realised that perhaps we did the trip backwards – it would have been better doing everything back to front as we had planned; just to avoid stopping in Posadas or Resistencia.

It was true, there was nothing in either of the cities but we had to make the choice and Resistencia it was. Arriving late on the Sunday – greeted by huge frogs and bare streets. We chose a dilapidating hostel – Bariloche – another mistake; we should have taken the slightly more expensive but breakfast inclusive 3 star hotel.

Next day we left with bags on our backs to navigate the city – actually town – no lets just call it a large village with one central square/plaza and nothing but TWO museums. Actually one you couldn’t really call a museum – a place of cultural interest, a memory of Resistencia after the war; a home to local artists – a commemoration of its rich owner. The second museum was more a representation of the guilt of its repressive actions the Argentines had on the indigenous people.

By 2pm – that was it. The town was shut to all. Bars, restaurants, museums (yes the two), were all closed as locals fled from the dead heat of the bare sky as the sun forced its heat into every crack beneath its glare. The siesta ended our relationship with Resistencia – but being way too early to catch our coach we found a hotel with a pool; paid a fee for the room and sunk into the cooler waters to wait for the hours to go by.

Resistencia – quite a heat trap!

COSTS:

Breakfast for two: AR$44

Museum: AR$5

Hotel with Pool (half day) AR$110

Bus to bus terminal: AR$2